Spokane, WA and on to Yellowstone National Park

Monday June 8th broke bright and beautiful in Spokane.  Following one of those delicious real showers at the Monahan’s I progressed from cool downstairs to the first floor which had taken on some of the heat from the previous day and night, but was still comfortable.  As I entered the kitchen and looked out front, Beth in running gear was heading out for the same three-mile run we did previously.  I proceeded to turn on the coffee pot to get the day going chemically, since I didn’t choose to run and crank up the body through a run.  Dick and Liz soon arose and we reviewed my drive plan for Three Forks, Montana.  

Actual leave time turned out to be 7:30 AM, when I steered the Highlander and attached Go from their driveway on 38th St.  Spokane and the Monahan’s were super hospitable, and I was sorry to see them in my rear view mirror.  

The drive East was through the mountains and a relatively low level pass into the farmlands below. Montana looks like it must still be getting some rain, though crops were being irrigated with the large overhead sprinkler systems on wheels. After listening to Lawrence and the Arabs for a few hours via DVD, I arrived in Three Forks, and picked up a few supplies at what looked to be one of the few grocery stores, then found the Headwaters State Campground a few miles out of town. It may have been out of town, but was definitely within earshot of I-90.  Had a nice pastoral campsite in close proximity to the bathrooms and went exploring with my bike down to see the three rivers that come to a confluence in this area.  The rivers are the Madison, Gallatin and Missouri.  

Since the campground had no showers, I decided to find a secluded spot and stripped off for a quick bath.  The water was relatively warm and running fast, so it was necessary to stay close to shore. To the best of my knowledge, I bathed in the Madison River which was a short bike ride through pasture type land from the campsite.  Drove back into Three Forks for dinner and had a nice salad and glass of wine in the renovated Sacajawea Hotel. They did a beautiful job restoring the property and I would want to stay a night in the future, albeit with my lovely wife Andrea.

Boyd on side lawn of Sacajawea Hotel

Read for a while that evening then called it a night around 10PM with the sky still partially illuminated from the sun that had not long ago moved on to illuminate another part of the globe.  

Arose Tuesday early, and was visited by a young bunny.

Baby Bunny at Headwaters Campsite- Three Forks, MT

I then decided to head out to the West Yellowstone entrance as I was unsure of where the Flagg Ranch campground outside Yellowstone was located.  They didn’t answer any of my calls at the front desk so had to wing it.  Took a good 10 minutes to enter the park along with a throng of other vehicles. I learned at the visitors center, that the road that normally would allow me to drive to Old Faithful then exit from the south entrance was closed so I chose to drive to Canyon, where I picked up some info on hiking.  The rangers strongly suggested I rent or purchase bear-spray, since I would be hiking alone.  I took their advice and $49 later had a large but slender can with a specialized nozzle and holster.  Bob Pawlishyn, my friend from Hilton Head had worried that I had no protection, and with this, I have everything I need.  I doubt Bob was thinking of the bears, but this would be equally effective from 20’ on any human that threatened.  

Oh the Bison will roam

With a speed limit of 45 it took some time to navigate to Canyon, and the traffic was stopped along the way due to a pair of bison wandering along the road.  I went on to explore the North Rim of Yellowstone Canyon, and the upper falls. Quite a spectacular canyon with multiple hues of colored stone from yellow, through orange to red. Near the upper falls was a pinnacle of rock upon which nested, you guessed it if your are from Hilton Head, an Osprey with chicks that were just coming out of their shells. There were numerous cameras focused on the chicks since it is unusual to have a vantage point from above the nest.

I determined from the ranger at the Back Country Hiking office that my campground was located 2 miles south of the south park exit in Wyoming.  With this knowledge, I headed south, eventually getting on to the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Hwy, that took me directly to Flagg Ranch where I checked in and got the lay of the land and my campsite.  The campsite is somewhat dense packed with others, and close to the highway so there is considerable road noise to contend with.  This seems to be a common thread amongst campsites, probably as they need to be convenient to the highways. There were threatening clouds and thunder as I pulled in, and I quickly set up camp, which was just as well, as the heavens opened up shortly thereafter with me inside enjoying a glass of wine and listening to the large raindrops pounding away at the tent material.  

The rain eased off enough for me to go to the lodge and have dinner of bison taco salad at the bar, before I returned to the campsite and went for a short walk behind the camp.  While walking, I came upon a totally relaxed young male mule dear,

A relaxed Mule Deer behind Headwaters Campground - Flagg Ranch

just content to observe me as I walked past from some 50’ away.

Wednesday at 5:30AM I was out of the Go and in my car to explore the gravel road to Grass Lake. I wished to see if I could spot any wild beasties along the way.  It was foggy, and but for a few birds, didn’t see anything other than some remote campsites in the Targee Forrest.  These I found out are first come first served, and with Flagg Ranch only a few miles down the road, a good deal at $0.00 per night.

Found the Kapiti Trail Head and after changing from jeans into hiking shorts and shoes headed out on the trail.  Came across a pair of wary elk

Pair of Elk along Kapiti Trail to Clear Lake

soon after starting off across large, green meadow lands.  They kept their distance and I proceeded on to Clear Lake about a mile down the trail.  This is a beautiful blue-green lake which happens to be acidic, so bathing is ill advised.  

Boyd by Clear Lake

I then took the route to Lily Pad pond and on to Artists Point on the South Rim of the canyon. Hoards of people there but beautiful views of the Lower Falls.  

Upper Falls and a Hilton Head Hiker

The ranger spoke of how the canyon was unique in the world as is was created from a lava flow, softened/weakened by geysers, and eventually carved out in a mater of a century 14,000 years ago with the end of the ice age.  That amazed me, as it is some 1,000 feet deep. Also of note, is that under normal snow conditions, you can't enter to Artists point till July, but this years meager snowpack had already melted which afforded me the opportunity to explore the area.

From Artist's Point I continued to follow the South Rim trail to Uncle Tom’s trail which descends some 500’ via 328 steps to a viewing platform close to the Lower Falls.  

Upper Falls, Yellowstone Canyon

The trail was rated for 45  minutes, however even at 8,000 ft. elevation I surprised myself by ascending in seven minutes to the top. The trail then proceeded along the South Rim to the Upper Falls where you could see tourists on a platform across on the North Rim.  Also of note was some serious snow still banked on the cliffs not far from the falls.  I looked for what I thought I remembered was a trail that transects the Clear Lake Trail back to Kapiti Trail Head, but after going back and forth for a while, I gave up and retraced my hike to Clear Lake and back to the trail head. I was one tired puppy with somewhat sore heals, upon conclusion of the 12 mile hike.  Beer and snack time upon return to the Highlander since the cooler was keeping things at a nice cold temp even while away for a few hours.  

On the drive South, came upon more of the Mud Caverns,

A cauldron of hot springs and mud

and a huge male Elk along the road,

At least here I can say " nice rack"

which had stopped traffic in both directions.  The Elk still had all of it's velvet on the antlers and was quite a sight to behold, therefore the traffic jam along the roadway. Was pretty exhausted when I got back to the Go, so took a quick nap before cleaning up for the day with a pleasantly warm and long shower. Had dinner at the lodge again as it is so convenient, and it was threatening rain, which just makes dinner outside a drag.